Yak Do Teen- ‘The Yak Effect’…

Ever wondered why Yaks are seldom given due importance by visitors in their trips and why do they end up just being a part of your trip album? Well, they could be many reasons for it as they are not found easily in the lower line areas but only in the snow capped mountains, just like camels in the desert. But believe you me, be it Leh, Kufri, Rohtang, Nathula or Tawang, all Yaks are the same. They are misunderstood by many as they look ferocious and dangerous by their appearances.

As we know, Yaks are good for carrying loads and transport tourists for a short distance in a snowy tourist spot and to take a pic or two with it (and trainer of course) for the album. The Yak helps you through slippery snow melting roads provided you have the patience to have your heart in the mouth if you are a first timer.


A Yak ride is better than a horse ride; a safe roller coaster ride, at least it doesn’t throw you off its back. There are many researches one can do on Yaks before getting to know what they are all about. To understand Yaks all you have to do is sleep a couple of nights with them (no ideas plz!!!), they are harmless and full of fun except for the smell…they stink horrible but they do have the “Yak Effect” as I discovered this during one of my visits to Nathula Pass in Sikkim, where I along with my friends had to spend a night in the shed with the Yaks. Couldn’t help as it snowed heavily due an avalanche that night and all rooms were booked except the shed, so we ‘shed’ all inhibitions (no ideas plz…again) and shivered (because of the cold) the whole night as none of us had seen so many Yaks… so close. The way they mooed we felt we were not welcomed sharing space with them, later we were told that it was one of the female Yaks who expressed her excitement seeing the 4 of us.

I’ve travelled on a few Yaks at various snow-hill mountains and got to gather some tips to bear in mind while travelling on a Yak….

1. Make sure you know a bit of horse riding as it would be easy to handle a Yak or recover from a fall.
2. Never use a body-deo or spray before mounting on it, remember Yaks hate good smell. So at least make sure to miss your bath that day, for a safe trip.
3. If still you can bear it, cover your nose with a surgical mask as some Yaks smell ‘Yuck’.
4. Never try to cuddle or pat it as it could be the last thing you did in your life.
5. If you are nervous dare not sing, carry an i-pod instead.
6. Keep your mobile in silent mode, never take or make a call, you may distract it.
7. All questions about it should be directed to its master.
8. Never dismount in a hurry, give an impression as if you enjoyed it.
9. Once you dismount, thank its trainer whole- heartedly instead of the Yak. You’ve reached safely, remember.
10. And, finally, never bargain on the charges; remember, you may have travel on it again.

Dare Me?

Who said that New Year resolutions are all about losing weight, getting along with the mother-in-law and spending money wisely? I can think of half a dozen reasons why these shouldn’t be on top of the list. They can be somewhere on the list but not on the top. Atleast….not for me. This year 2012 spells a different mantra for me. I can feel it in my bone. It’s gonna be all about stepping outside my comfort-zone….leaving (at least a part of) my apprehensions and reservations behind and doing something I’ve never done before. Ok….now that would be a tall order. This year I shall restrict it to Travel. It’s just as ‘unfamiliar’ a territory for me.

I’ve always travelled in a structured tour whether it’s when I went to the Vatican, Varkala or to Vijayawada. Always….always had someone else decide and design my trips for me. From deciding locations to getting there and then what and who I’d be meeting – was also pre-decided. Not that I had a problem with that. But I often wondered how it is on the other side….?

This year…..I’m gonna find out. I will indulge in some impulsive travel. Better yet….I will drive there myself. Besides, this has been a long-parked item on the New Year resolutions list of a friend and mine that its gathering cobwebs now. So…must act on it. We’ve always wanted to drive down from Hyderabad to Bangalore (can’t get myself to saying Bengaluru) in our own car. I must inform her of my New Year resolution (yet again) of this current year and also make her pledge her time (apparently pledging my time ain’t working).

But first…I guess I need to know how to handle tubeless tyres of an Octavia if they get punctured on the highway with no pittstop in sight. Is learning – ‘to change car tyres’- the only way out? I guess I also oughtta get myself a GPS (just in case a Florida twister were to sweep me off my route and land me off-track far away) though I heard this highway connecting Bangalore to Hyderabad is awesome and is a dream for casual cruisers with near-zero traffic during the day. I heard you can do 130 kilometres in an octavia...easy as the road is as good as an express way. I heard this highway also offers good photographic visuals. And the most important (especially for a first-timer like my good-self) - it is one straight road. No bifurcations or ‘patli-gallis’. Koolio! That makes for a good start.

Wanna know my ultimate dare? I want to drive a truck on the Highway between Manali and Leh....especially to get a feel of driving through the Rohtang Pass - world's highest motorable road at 13, 050 feet! Seemed like a cinch in an 'ice-road trucking' TV program last week when another female drove one. What say?

Nathula Pass- Not for weak hearts…

The recent earthquake that rocked the state of Sikkim in Sept 2011 last year took me back to one of the summers which I and my friends happen to spend there. Sikkim is nostalgic for me as I’ve spent some of the best years of my life there.

Sikkim’s Gangtok was just a two and half hour ride from New Jalpaiguri (West Bengal) station from where one could take a taxi or a bus to enter the state of Sikkim. Having all the arrangements made by the army (33 Corps), we all 4 friends started off in a Gypsy after consuming light breakfast at New Jalpaiguri station. This time we thought of becoming a bit bolder by not just camping at Gangtok but going ahead as we were suggested by someone to visit the Nathula Pass where one could see the Chinese border and also see posts being exchanged between both the countries.

For many who do not know about Nathula Pass, Nathula is a pass located on the Indo Chinese border ('La' meaning 'Pass' in Tibetan) which is guarded by Indian and Chinese troops. The place is about 55 kilometers from Gangtok which takes about 2 ½ hours to 3 hrs by road and passes through Tsongo Lake.



Nathula is covered with snow throughout the year. Initially the pass was traditionally used for trading by merchants of India and Tibet.

We reached Gangtok by 11 am after admiring all the scenic beauty that nature had to offer us on the way. Gangtok was pretty chill, so we freshened up to have an early lunch in the mess and headed towards the Mall road and monasteries in Gangtok. Nothing was new to me as I had already visited it but my friends were thrilled to know that Danny Denzongpa hailed from this place. As it becomes dark soon in the east, we planned to start for Nathula immediately where one needed to report at the base camp at Nathula before 5.30 pm. We were given a 1 ton (an army vehicle now no more in use) which was more suited for the hilly region. The driver drove us to the check post (by 4 pm) that is enroute to Nathula. After finishing formalities at the check post we were cautioned by the driver that- Come what may, DO NOT PEEP OUT OF THE VEHICLE (This line was enough for curiosity to get the better of us) as he drove past mile after mile.

We were told by the driver that the landmarks after the check post were marked by miles- 5, 9, 12…etc, by army pickets. It was mandatory for us to reach the base camp before 6 pm or else one can expect a recovery vehicle to retrieve your vehicle and bodies from the deep down valley.

We were already on our way with clouds entering our vehicle to welcome us. One of my friends just could not resist opening the tarpole (the cloth which covered the vehicle) a wee bit to peep what’s outside. He was shell-shocked to see that we were driving 10,000 ft high and before any one of us could say ‘Jack Robinson’ Mr. Peeping Tom fell unconscious and suffered a bout of fits. We all shouted at the driver ‘ Gaadi Roko’, the driver stopped and we got down to provide first-aid to our friend, we could see fog all around us and what more the road was exactly of the same breath as that of the vehicle. With one down, we three just didn’t have the courage to get into the vehicle and continue as we all were terrified. It was getting darker as the driver somehow coaxed us to get before the recovery van could fetch us. Somehow we started praying, closed our eyes and held each other’s hand and got into the 1 ton. The driver sped up before we could change our minds.

Exactly after an hour of silence accompanied with shivering (not because of the cold) we realized that the vehicle had stopped and heard a pleasant voice saying- Utar jaaiye sir, base camp aa gaya!!! We all opened our eyes as if we were granted another life. We realized it was pitch dark and only could see a lantern lit at a little height. We were told to get down (carrying Mr. Peeping Tom) holding each other’s hand and keep walking till we reached the lantern. All we knew was that we were walking through fresh snow- Alive. As we climbed steps we could see an army man waiting for us with 4 cups of ‘Chai’ in his tray. It was paradise for us as we felt that there couldn’t be a better way to celebrate our survival on reaching Nathula. But we were in for a shock as our driver said confidently – Sir, aap log raat yahaan bita lo, kal aapko ek doosri gaadi mein Nathula Pass le jaaya jaayega….!!

Somehow, the next morning we got up amidst Yaks because of the overnight snow and lack of accommodation, we were given a Yak shed to sleep that night. The whole shed was buried in snow. Just, then we could see someone throwing a rope from the roof top and telling us to come out holding it. We all were pulled out one after another bidding good-bye to the Yaks. My friend who suffered fits regained his senses and asked- ‘Main yahaan kaise aaya?’ Tea was waiting for us along with some bread and jam. We were told to quickly have it and report at the vehicle standing down which would take us to the border.

We were asked if we would like to go to the border by the chopper but decided against it. After deciding to live life dangerously, we hopped on to the vehicle to get on to a totally different journey. As our fears started to vanish, we could see small army men posted at different picket points on our journey. Being May month we couldn’t see anything except snow, snow and more snow. We started to imagine what it would be like in December and January months when the temperature drops down to -25 degree C and what about our soldiers who safeguard us from enemy invasions in these icing conditions.

Our vehicle stopped and we were told to get down. We had to go through a safety check before climbing up the snow mountain from where the Chinese border could be visible. With less than 80% oxygen available this was a challenge as we got ready to walk up about ½ km in heavy snow to see the posts getting exchanged. It took as about 45 mins to reach the top and totally exhausted were we. There was another army personnel who pulled us up to tell us about the place and all about the posts that were exchanged between the two countries. The 4 cups of tea again infused energy into us making us feel so small and meaningless in front of these soldiers who contribute so much towards the nation by performing their duty relentlessly.

We all need to bow down at these unsung brave heroes who give away everything for our peace.

Our journey to Nathula Pass came to an end, though exhausted but very refreshing and fulfilling. I look back at those fond memories which have become a part of my life…forever!!!

Rave-ing & Ranting in Goa for New Yearz Eve !!

Intelligentia, literati, scribes, muckrakers are all I’ve hopped parties with so far where the highest decibel was provided by the Italian Operatic Tenor - Pavarotti or the Hindustani Classical Vocalist – Pandit Bhimsen Joshi….and greatest move made was towards the buffet table.

This would certainly be the first for me to dance to ear-deafening hundreds of watts of trance & techno music and be flooded with broad and dense laser beams in environs that are practically not visible in the otherwise pitch dark venue with thick artificial fog clouding your view (or what little is left of your view) - of your co-dancer. Phew! You’d have to be a Navy Seal to navigate through this unpredictable terrain! Wonder how they do it?!

They call them Rave Parties. And Goa is a ‘Rave Party Capital’ of India and is reckoned number 3 on the list of ‘Top Rave Party Destinations of the World’. Originating in the 60’s Hippie Culture and refined in the acid-house parties in the 80’s by the DJs of Chicago – Goa’s acid parties are transitioning into yet another trend. Silence!

Music is played alright…only….directly into the ears of the party-hoppers. Yup you heard it right. You would wear headphones that are connected through WIFI to the DJ system and hence would have music streamed to you directly. Now THIS is what caught my fancy. I heard these parties are catching on – especially on the Anjuna Beach in Goa. So That’s where I’m headed this New Year’s Eve. Lemme see what are raving and ranting about. Goa Ahoy!