Tshangu Lake

Tshangu Lake

I had visited Gangtok the capital city of Sikkim, in the year 1998. This city is situated at an height of 4,700 feet and the memories of the place which is still fresh in my mind is the Tshangu Lake, which is located at the Indo-China border at an height of 12,400 feet.  

On the day of our visit to Tshangu Lake, we all got up early and got ready by 8’ o’ clock. After having breakfast we all boarded the taxi, which was waiting patiently for us outside the hotel. The driver started immediately, and the taxi zoomed towards Tamand Gompa Road, crossing the busy streets of Gangtok.

 It was the month of May and to my surprise the streets were busy with school going children with their heavy bags on their back and the school buses plying on the road, when most of the schools of India have Summer Vacation. To clarify my doubt, I asked the driver “how come these children are having school in the month of May”? Driver answered me that there the schools run in full swing in the summer months, as the weather is very pleasant in these months, but the schools have winter vacation in the peak winter months, which is unbearable there.

Coming out of the city, we headed for Tshangu Lake through the winding roads of Ghat. A journey through this road is really an unforgettable experience, with natural beauty all around. Initially everyone in the group were very energetic and happy, but slowly the energy level became feeble as we moved higher and higher as some of the members from our group started feeling sick, due to continuous twist and turns of the vehicle.  I carried some Domstal tablets with me to prevent vomiting, so the sick ones gulped the tablets to be alright at least when they reach Tshangu Lake. But by the grace of God, all throughout the journey, I was very energetic and enthusiastic, so I went on clicking photographs of the picturesque surroundings through the window pane or sometimes getting down at certain points. As we were ascending the heights, the clouds started ushering us with open arms. Opening the window panes we could even touch and feel the clouds. I would have certainly gone out and got wet by these clouds in any other place but the temperature being very low there, I could not dare to get wet by the clouds.

While getting up the Ghat Road we could only see some tourist cars and more of army Shaktiman trucks going up and down the hill road. The roads were bordered with many army camps with army jawans moving on the roads. Halfway to the lake, we came across Kyongnosla Waterfall, the view of which was so appealing that we told our driver to stop the vehicle there. We all got down to get closer view of the waterfall and my brother-in-law went towards the fall with two pet bottles to grab this clean and clear water in them, as it was told by our elders that water from waterfall coming through the rocks is very good for digestion and tasty. But this water was used less for drinking and more for washing as three members from our group started vomiting while going up. After moving up for some distance, our driver stopped the vehicle for the astonishing view of famous snow-clad mountains known as Kanchanjangha, seemed to be very close from there.

 Kyongnosla Waterfall

Kanchanjangha Mountain

 After short stops at different points the vehicle stopped at small shopping spot at a height of 10,400 feet, where most of the tourists were sipping hot cup of tea or coffee as the temperature fell down drastically, with two sweaters on, I was feeling very cold. There were some shops selling woolen garments and some traditional dresses of Sikkim with some handicrafts too. To keep the body warm there were some wine shops too.

After sipping a cup of coffee we all started for the final lap of the journey to Tshangu Lake, which was still 2000 feet above. Finally at around 12.30 pm we reached our destination the Tshangu Lake, after travelling for about 40 Km. We all hurriedly got down the taxi with lots of enthusiasm. We all were mesmerized by the view of the lake and the mountain covered with snow in some pockets standing just in front of us.

Tshangu Lake

Seeing us, the small boys from 2 to 3 shops came to us, for marketing their stuffs. With the help of one of these boys we all headed for the shop where they were hiring gum boots to climb the snow laden mountain easily. Putting on gum boots we all moved towards the mountain. After climbing few yards my husband and co-sister felt tired and were scared to move up more. I, my two year old daughter and brother-in-law continued moving up and we reached the peak where we played with ice lying beneath us, we threw ice balls on each other. Just beneath this mountain there is a lake named Tshangu lake, which is deep blue colored water body of nearly 1 Km long. It was so thrilling and exciting that we spent around an hour there. Here we took many photographs. We climbed down after being called down by my husband and co-sister who were waiting for us down there.

Getting down the hill my daughter took a ride on Yak. After this we headed for some snacks or food from the stalls put up there. We had some light snacks as we had to descend down by about 8000 feet through the same winding roads around the mountains. But then also some of our group members started vomiting on the way which was cleaned by Bisleri drinking water and waterfall water. 

Yak Ride

On the whole the trip was very exciting which can never be forgotten.

Nathula Pass- Not for weak hearts…

The recent earthquake that rocked the state of Sikkim in Sept 2011 last year took me back to one of the summers which I and my friends happen to spend there. Sikkim is nostalgic for me as I’ve spent some of the best years of my life there.

Sikkim’s Gangtok was just a two and half hour ride from New Jalpaiguri (West Bengal) station from where one could take a taxi or a bus to enter the state of Sikkim. Having all the arrangements made by the army (33 Corps), we all 4 friends started off in a Gypsy after consuming light breakfast at New Jalpaiguri station. This time we thought of becoming a bit bolder by not just camping at Gangtok but going ahead as we were suggested by someone to visit the Nathula Pass where one could see the Chinese border and also see posts being exchanged between both the countries.

For many who do not know about Nathula Pass, Nathula is a pass located on the Indo Chinese border ('La' meaning 'Pass' in Tibetan) which is guarded by Indian and Chinese troops. The place is about 55 kilometers from Gangtok which takes about 2 ½ hours to 3 hrs by road and passes through Tsongo Lake.



Nathula is covered with snow throughout the year. Initially the pass was traditionally used for trading by merchants of India and Tibet.

We reached Gangtok by 11 am after admiring all the scenic beauty that nature had to offer us on the way. Gangtok was pretty chill, so we freshened up to have an early lunch in the mess and headed towards the Mall road and monasteries in Gangtok. Nothing was new to me as I had already visited it but my friends were thrilled to know that Danny Denzongpa hailed from this place. As it becomes dark soon in the east, we planned to start for Nathula immediately where one needed to report at the base camp at Nathula before 5.30 pm. We were given a 1 ton (an army vehicle now no more in use) which was more suited for the hilly region. The driver drove us to the check post (by 4 pm) that is enroute to Nathula. After finishing formalities at the check post we were cautioned by the driver that- Come what may, DO NOT PEEP OUT OF THE VEHICLE (This line was enough for curiosity to get the better of us) as he drove past mile after mile.

We were told by the driver that the landmarks after the check post were marked by miles- 5, 9, 12…etc, by army pickets. It was mandatory for us to reach the base camp before 6 pm or else one can expect a recovery vehicle to retrieve your vehicle and bodies from the deep down valley.

We were already on our way with clouds entering our vehicle to welcome us. One of my friends just could not resist opening the tarpole (the cloth which covered the vehicle) a wee bit to peep what’s outside. He was shell-shocked to see that we were driving 10,000 ft high and before any one of us could say ‘Jack Robinson’ Mr. Peeping Tom fell unconscious and suffered a bout of fits. We all shouted at the driver ‘ Gaadi Roko’, the driver stopped and we got down to provide first-aid to our friend, we could see fog all around us and what more the road was exactly of the same breath as that of the vehicle. With one down, we three just didn’t have the courage to get into the vehicle and continue as we all were terrified. It was getting darker as the driver somehow coaxed us to get before the recovery van could fetch us. Somehow we started praying, closed our eyes and held each other’s hand and got into the 1 ton. The driver sped up before we could change our minds.

Exactly after an hour of silence accompanied with shivering (not because of the cold) we realized that the vehicle had stopped and heard a pleasant voice saying- Utar jaaiye sir, base camp aa gaya!!! We all opened our eyes as if we were granted another life. We realized it was pitch dark and only could see a lantern lit at a little height. We were told to get down (carrying Mr. Peeping Tom) holding each other’s hand and keep walking till we reached the lantern. All we knew was that we were walking through fresh snow- Alive. As we climbed steps we could see an army man waiting for us with 4 cups of ‘Chai’ in his tray. It was paradise for us as we felt that there couldn’t be a better way to celebrate our survival on reaching Nathula. But we were in for a shock as our driver said confidently – Sir, aap log raat yahaan bita lo, kal aapko ek doosri gaadi mein Nathula Pass le jaaya jaayega….!!

Somehow, the next morning we got up amidst Yaks because of the overnight snow and lack of accommodation, we were given a Yak shed to sleep that night. The whole shed was buried in snow. Just, then we could see someone throwing a rope from the roof top and telling us to come out holding it. We all were pulled out one after another bidding good-bye to the Yaks. My friend who suffered fits regained his senses and asked- ‘Main yahaan kaise aaya?’ Tea was waiting for us along with some bread and jam. We were told to quickly have it and report at the vehicle standing down which would take us to the border.

We were asked if we would like to go to the border by the chopper but decided against it. After deciding to live life dangerously, we hopped on to the vehicle to get on to a totally different journey. As our fears started to vanish, we could see small army men posted at different picket points on our journey. Being May month we couldn’t see anything except snow, snow and more snow. We started to imagine what it would be like in December and January months when the temperature drops down to -25 degree C and what about our soldiers who safeguard us from enemy invasions in these icing conditions.

Our vehicle stopped and we were told to get down. We had to go through a safety check before climbing up the snow mountain from where the Chinese border could be visible. With less than 80% oxygen available this was a challenge as we got ready to walk up about ½ km in heavy snow to see the posts getting exchanged. It took as about 45 mins to reach the top and totally exhausted were we. There was another army personnel who pulled us up to tell us about the place and all about the posts that were exchanged between the two countries. The 4 cups of tea again infused energy into us making us feel so small and meaningless in front of these soldiers who contribute so much towards the nation by performing their duty relentlessly.

We all need to bow down at these unsung brave heroes who give away everything for our peace.

Our journey to Nathula Pass came to an end, though exhausted but very refreshing and fulfilling. I look back at those fond memories which have become a part of my life…forever!!!